June 26 (Day 96) - Zero Day in Luray, VA

June 24 (Day 97) - Rock Spring Hut to Luray, VA

Though I was suffering a bit of a hangover, I pulled myself together and began hiking around 8:30 AM.  Shortly thereafter, I encountered another black bear in the middle of the trail.  I thought that I'd snap a photo with my phone, but the bear was apparently averse to having its picture taken.  It charged toward me, and I found myself backpedaling, waving my trekking poles and singing Uke's bear deterrent song:

"Go away, bear.  I ain't got time for you, bear."

I hitched a ride into Luray, intent upon securing a mail drop, eating lunch, and returning directly to the trail.  However, as I sat outside Dollar General, G Money (aka Sweet Cheeks) and Gandolf walked by me.  I called to them and waved.  Then, the two joined me, and we sat, conversing, for a few hours.

As it grew late in the day, the three of us decided to split a room at the Best Western in Luray.  Gandolf and I were particularly pleased that the hotel had On Demand...for free.  Beers in hand, we watched Game of Thrones until the wee hours of the morning.

June 20 (Day 94) - Waynesboro, VA to Random Campsite

This morning, I was the last to rise, an odd occurrence.  We broke camp and rode with Miss Janet to a diner called Weasie's.  Then, after a hearty breakfast, we all headed to the outfitter.

Uncle Buck and Stretch prepared their kayaks and left our company at the outfitter, as they were headed to aqua-blaze Shenandoah.  It was difficult to see Stretch leaving the group; I've grown quite fond of her company.  Less the two, Miss Janet drove the rest of us to the trailhead, where we began hiking.

As the day progressed, I fell behind Siren, Odie, and Jungle Jim.  My ankle and arch were sore, and I didn't want to risk further injury.  Roughly eight miles from the trailhead, I came upon a suitable campsite and stopped for the day.

June 29 (Day 99) - Elkwallow Wayside to Tom Floyd Wayside

G Money (aka Sweet Cheeks) and I awoke rather early and made our way back to the wayside.  We ate breakfast and washed in the bathroom.  Tarrying a bit, we socialized with other hikers about the events of the previous night, particularly the behavior of the park ranger.  Although I didn't partake, Memphis made man-mosas (beer and orange juice), and they seemed rather interesting.  Eventually, we made our way back to the trail.

After hiking for some time , we met Coonskin and his girlfriend, Patch.  Coonskin was a SoBo hiker in 2012, and today was Patch's first experience with hiking.  We all sat for a while, chatting and exchanging stories.   Then, we made our way to Gravel Springs Hut.

At Gravel Springs Hut, we encountered the same ridge runner from our experience at Rock Spring Hut.  She was cordial and exchanged pleasantries with us, but shortly after she departed, two park SUVs descended the fire road.  Three rangers exited the vehicles, clutching their guns.  Sufficed to say, it was rather unnerving, as we did not know why they were there.

The rangers surrounded us, and I immediately recognized one from the night before.  Clearly, he also recognized me, as well, because he addressed me first.  Apparently, the ridge runner had caught another hiker, Step Up, bathing naked in a stream.  The rangers spoke with him, but I couldn't shake the feeling that we were all in some sort of trouble.  The rangers remained around us, and as they spoke with Step Up, I got the impression that we were all being detained.

Before their departure, the rangers performed a permit check.  And, as Stuart Curtain, the overly officious ranger from the previous night, walked away I could hear him ask another ranger, "Did you see anything else?"

Convinced that the park had become a rather unfriendly environment, at least for thru-hikers, we all resolved to exit Shenandoah by nightfall.  G Money (aka Sweet Cheeks) and I made camp near the Tom Floyd Wayside, actually a shelter and just outside the park boundary.

June 28 (Day 98) - Random Campsite to Elkwallow Wayside

Today was a rather unambitious day.  G Money (aka Sweet Cheeks) and I only hiked a few miles and came to rest at the Elkwallow Wayside.  What was meant to be a brief stop for lunch turned into an all day affair.

Shortly after lunch, we met up with Mad Dog and Snakebite and sat, conversing while our phones charged.  Dark clouds moved overhead, and a light rain began to fall.  Not wanting to set out in the rain, we purchased some beverages of the alcoholic persuasion and continued to socialize.

Unfortunately, the day was marked by looming clouds and intermittent rain.  Soon the afternoon turned to evening, and we were still at the wayside, when Memphis and Buttercup arrived.  So...we all came to peace with the fact that hiking further wasn't in the cards.  We purchased more beverages and made a party of it.

I don't think a passing ranger was pleased with our little soiree.  He stopped and performed a permit check on every thru-hiker present.  We weren't breaking any rules, but I got the distinct impression that we weren't altogether welcome.

As night fell, G Money (aka Sweet Cheeks) and I wandered down a blue blaze trail to find a tent pad.  Meanwhile, back at the wayside, the ranger had returned...with a vengeance.  From what I understand, he commanded that everyone clear out, demonstrating a particular disdain for thru-hikers.  He allegedly stated that the group was bound to break the rules and that everyone needed to disperse before it happened.

June 27 (Day 97) - Luray, VA to Random Campsite

Determined to leave town, Gandolf, G Money (aka Sweet Cheeks), and I packed expeditiously.  Yet again, we saw dark clouds; ducking into Uncle Buck's, we waited out the rain and filled our stomachs.  Then, we caught a ride to the trailhead with the owner of Uncle Buck's.

At the Panorama, we stayed beneath the cover of the bathroom area, since it continued to rain.  I boiled water for coffee, and we played with a frisbee.  Gandolf eventually hiked ahead, but G Money and I tarried, hoping the rain would stop completely.

Venturing into the mist and light rain, G Money and I found a suitable campsite, a few miles from the trailhead.

June 25 (Day 95) - Zero Day in Luray, VA

June 23 (Day 96) - Bearfence Hut to Rock Spring Hut

I've learned that waysides have just as much gravity as towns.  A number of hikers converged at Big Meadows Wayside, and we spent a great deal of time resting and socializing.  I took the opportunity to order every blackberry item on the menu, in addition to another scrumptious black bean burger.  After blackberry cobbler with blackberry ice cream, a blackberry sundae, and a blackberry shake, I had consumed over 3000 calories.  Sufficed to say, a food coma was imminent.

The group at the wayside included Siren, Odie, Ciera, B, G Money (aka Sweet Cheeks), Gandolf, and Indigo.  We sat, socializing, until much of the day had slipped away.  Then, we packed wine and beer from the camp store and headed to the next shelter, Rock Spring Shelter.

At the shelter, we encountered a ridge runner, who was apparently spending the night.  Carousing and conversing around a blazing fire, we apparently failed to regulate the volume of our voices, and we disturbed the ridge runner.  She yelled down to us from the tenting area and chastised us for our allegedly rowdy behavior.

As the ridge runner repeatedly mentioned that she had to work in the morning, someone amid our group commented that she had to do exactly what we had to do in the morning.  Though we had lowered our voices and begun to settle in for the night, the ridge runner apparently heard the comment.  She was none too pleased and continued her rant for quite some time.

June 22 (Day 95) - Pinefield Hut to Bearfence Hut

The morning began much as the previous night had ended; that is to say it began with noisy Boy Scouts.  The group, including the leaders decided to congregate around the shelter, even though none had actually slept inside it.  The norm, out here on the trail, is to move away from anyone who may be sleeping and to be as quiet as possible.  This contingent did the opposite, gathering around those sleeping in the shelter at the crack of dawn.

As icing on the cake, one rather obnoxious young man scoffed at my tent (bug netting) being set up inside the shelter.  Since I was standing nearby and less than amused with the situation, I may have retorted in a less than cordial manner.  I was...rather grumpy, this morning.

I hiked to Swift Run Gap and decided to step into Elkton for lunch.  Unfortunately, it has gotten noticeably more difficult to secure a hitch, as we move north, and I spent the better part of an hour with my thumb out.  In fact, I walked halfway to town (perhaps, mumbling expletives with regard to Virginia), before someone finally gave me a lift.

After lunch and waiting for my phone to charge at the Country Store and Deli, I set about finding a ride back to the trail.  I experienced the same difficulty in getting back as I did in getting to town.  Fast forward an hour, Odie arrived at the store; he managed to score us a ride from a gentleman, who had stopped for gas.

Back on the trail, I met up with Jungle Jim, and we hiked into the twilight hours, finally reaching Bearfence Hut.

June 21 (Day 94) - Random Campsite to Pinefield Hut

Today was the summer solstice.  For the uninitiated, this also means that today was Hike Naked Day.  And, that's exactly what I did.

I awoke at 4:30 AM, after a rather restless night.  I had sent my sleeping bag and air mattress home, when I was in Lexington, so my sleep system is now comprised of my liner and a 5'x5' piece of fleece.  I'd anticipated warmer weather.  Unfortunately, the nights have been anything but warm.

I broke camp and began hiking in the buff.  Standing naked in the woods, I felt a bit self-conscious at first, but I soon became very comfortable with the situation.  On most days, I go commando, anyway.  Today, I just felt much cooler.

I tied a camp towel to my hip belt and would cover myself when I encountered other hikers.  Though, sometimes I zoned out and didn't notice people until they'd probably seen too much.  Luckily, this was not the case with the ranger that I encountered.

Donning my shorts, I stopped at a wayside for lunch.  Along with my black bean burger and sweet potato fries, I drank two of Shenandoah's legendary blackberry shakes.  And, they are AMAZING.  If you ever find yourself nearby, you MUST get one.

I camped at Pinefield Hut for the night.  Gandalf, Jungle Jim, Groundhog, and G Money were also there, as well as a Boy Scout contingent.  Honestly, it amazed me how little these scouts knew about Leave No Trace and camp courtesy.  They burned plastics, urinated in the privy (instead of the woods), and were rather loud until late into the night.  It certainly wasn't what I recall of my days in Boy Scouts; that's for sure.

May 31 (Day 74) - Random Campsite to Bailey Gap Shelter

Rejuvenated, I hiked to the Captain's and met up with Gilgamesh, Little Bear, Beer Goddess, and Fast Times.  Odie and Sprouts were also there.  We drank plenty of free soda and enjoyed a trout dinner.

(Odie also supplied me with my first taste of real moonshine.)

A large bubble of hikers arrived, and I wasn't particularly comfortable with the situation.  The group included some shady characters...not to mention Hammy.  As such, I packed up and hiked into the night, settling at Bailey Gap Shelter.

June 18 (Day 92) - Zero Day in Waynesboro, VA

After several hours of restful sleep at the Super 8, I decided to take a zero day, catch up on my blogging, do laundry, and maintain my gear.  I secured the room for another night.  Then, I texted Stretch and Siren to let them know that they could stay with me when they arrived in town.

Shortly thereafter, I received a call from Stretch; she said that a trail angel and former thru-hiker was opening his home to us for the night.  Unfortunately, I'd already paid for the room and told her that I would be staying at the Super 8.

A short time later, Stretch arrived at my room, using keywords (as instructed by Siren) like jacuzzi, beer, and pizza.  I asked the proprietor if I could pay for the few hours past checkout and receive a refund for the room.  Alas, he was less than agreeable.

Odie made quite a scene with the proprietor, stating that he was going to call the corporate offices, but Stretch smoothed things over and begged for a refund.  When all was said and done, I received a refund, paying only for the three hours that I was in the room past checkout time.

We ventured with Sharkey, the trail angel and former thru-hiker, to Walmart, securing supplies for the evening.  I purchased the makings for some amazing French toast, and the others purchased pizza, snacks, and libations.

Back at Sharkey's abode, we took showers, laundered our clothes, and ate pizza.  We sat around talking and listening to music.  And, we ended the night drinking our beverages in the comfort of the jacuzzi.

June 17 (Day 91) - Random Campsite to Waynesboro, VA

I had gotten it my head that I wanted to be in New York by July 4th, but as I accelerated away from Stretch, Siren, and Odie, I didn't feel altogether right about my decision.  I do enjoy the high mileage days, off on my own.  However, the trail, this adventure, seems to be more about the people I meet and the experiences I have, rather than actually reaching Katahdin.  Make no mistake, I want to summit Katahdin, but I also want to remain open to everything this experience has to teach me.

At Reed's Gap, I hitched to a nearby gas station.  I ate some amazing barbeque for lunch and returned to the trail with four 12-packs of soda/iced tea.  I set the trail magic near the trail and left a note for my former companions.

Mailman and I leapfrogged for the remainder of the day, reaching the barricade at Waynesboro around 9:30 PM.  Mailman called a trail angel to transport us into town.  My initial intent was to find a place to charge my phone and head into Shenandoah to camp for the night.  However, the moment we stepped into the vehicle, the skies opened up and burst forth a torrential downpour.  As such, I rode with Mailman to the Super 8 and secured a room for the night.

I tried to be productive.  But, since it was late and I'd not slept well for the past few days, I passed out, shortly after relaxing on the bed of my room.